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	<title>Comments on: Crop Killers</title>
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	<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2009/11/hydroponic-crop-killers/</link>
	<description>Hydroponics for Growing Minds</description>
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		<title>By: Kip Nickell</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2009/11/hydroponic-crop-killers/comment-page-1/#comment-1540</link>
		<dc:creator>Kip Nickell</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 Dec 2010 02:47:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=774#comment-1540</guid>
		<description>This is a simple solution to help with #1 and #3 which I learned from the fish aquarium hobby trying to emulate the very low pH and very soft waters of the Rio Negro tributary to the Amazon.

Use two 5 gallon buckets.  The top one will be a simple filter and the second is the catch can.  The filter is as simple as putting about 4 inches of filter floss (find in aquarium hobby) and fill the rest of the 5 gallon bucket with peat moss.  Poke a little (1/8&quot;) hole in the bottom of the top bucket and let it drain into the bottom bucket.  

The result will be water with a pH around 5.5-6.0 and with a water hardness darn near 0. It will look a little like tea if it is done correctly.  One bucket-full of peat moss can successfully filter 80-100 gallons of water before it needs to be replaced.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is a simple solution to help with #1 and #3 which I learned from the fish aquarium hobby trying to emulate the very low pH and very soft waters of the Rio Negro tributary to the Amazon.</p>
<p>Use two 5 gallon buckets.  The top one will be a simple filter and the second is the catch can.  The filter is as simple as putting about 4 inches of filter floss (find in aquarium hobby) and fill the rest of the 5 gallon bucket with peat moss.  Poke a little (1/8&#8243;) hole in the bottom of the top bucket and let it drain into the bottom bucket.  </p>
<p>The result will be water with a pH around 5.5-6.0 and with a water hardness darn near 0. It will look a little like tea if it is done correctly.  One bucket-full of peat moss can successfully filter 80-100 gallons of water before it needs to be replaced.</p>
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		<title>By: greenfinger</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2009/11/hydroponic-crop-killers/comment-page-1/#comment-1018</link>
		<dc:creator>greenfinger</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 27 Apr 2010 23:34:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=774#comment-1018</guid>
		<description>How to overcome problems no 3,9. Depending where you live I used with success a 3 litre cola bottle. Do 5 bottles at the same time. Trick is to shake the water hard and smell (seriously) then add liquid nutrients. Be careful and measure exactly according to the feed chart. Personally I use a nurse&#039;s syringe to be as accurate as possible. Then I use my ppm stick (parts per million), fill and measure a cup of nutrient rich water full a l.e.d number to ensure the strength. Basically ensure the number is what you expect. THEN leave 24+ hour with an air pump and small stone in the bottle. After 24 hours you can store for later or use as normal. This simple method 100% &#039;helped my plants.&#039; I&#039;d say it increased yield by 20% in soil. No expense just patience I guess also. With BIG thirsty plants in 15 litre pots and work I&#039;d little if any spare time so I put (as an experiment) the pre-made water in bottles, then into the freezer. I know sounds mad in hindsight yet it worked a treat and saved me hours. The bottles when put into the freezer expand. Then I&#039;d take the bottles out of the  freezer 3L lump ice before work. I&#039;d 5mins spare so I would leave the bottles in such a way that as the water froze they spilt but nothing leaked. The plant would feed during the lights on and by the time I&#039;d finished work they&#039;d almost be dry again - the bottles slowly dripped nutrient rich water into the soil. I&#039;d 5 big plants, each had 3+ per day: without my effort I am sure they would have died. At the time after a day or 2 (about 4 years ago) I really thought I was producing co2 (I read about DRY ICE): to me, ice was ice! Those particular 5 plants produced a huge crop. Best ever, considering I had 9mins everyday, and re-stocked the freezer at weekends.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>How to overcome problems no 3,9. Depending where you live I used with success a 3 litre cola bottle. Do 5 bottles at the same time. Trick is to shake the water hard and smell (seriously) then add liquid nutrients. Be careful and measure exactly according to the feed chart. Personally I use a nurse&#8217;s syringe to be as accurate as possible. Then I use my ppm stick (parts per million), fill and measure a cup of nutrient rich water full a l.e.d number to ensure the strength. Basically ensure the number is what you expect. THEN leave 24+ hour with an air pump and small stone in the bottle. After 24 hours you can store for later or use as normal. This simple method 100% &#8216;helped my plants.&#8217; I&#8217;d say it increased yield by 20% in soil. No expense just patience I guess also. With BIG thirsty plants in 15 litre pots and work I&#8217;d little if any spare time so I put (as an experiment) the pre-made water in bottles, then into the freezer. I know sounds mad in hindsight yet it worked a treat and saved me hours. The bottles when put into the freezer expand. Then I&#8217;d take the bottles out of the  freezer 3L lump ice before work. I&#8217;d 5mins spare so I would leave the bottles in such a way that as the water froze they spilt but nothing leaked. The plant would feed during the lights on and by the time I&#8217;d finished work they&#8217;d almost be dry again &#8211; the bottles slowly dripped nutrient rich water into the soil. I&#8217;d 5 big plants, each had 3+ per day: without my effort I am sure they would have died. At the time after a day or 2 (about 4 years ago) I really thought I was producing co2 (I read about DRY ICE): to me, ice was ice! Those particular 5 plants produced a huge crop. Best ever, considering I had 9mins everyday, and re-stocked the freezer at weekends.</p>
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		<title>By: greenfinger</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2009/11/hydroponic-crop-killers/comment-page-1/#comment-1012</link>
		<dc:creator>greenfinger</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 27 Apr 2010 01:46:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=774#comment-1012</guid>
		<description>Also never interrupt the 12 hour dark period. The leaf colour is a good indication of overall plant health. (My experience.) You should buy a ppm meter or e.c. to be exact and remember you can add nutrients but it&#039;s hard to &#039;water-down&#039; if the stock tank levels rise.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Also never interrupt the 12 hour dark period. The leaf colour is a good indication of overall plant health. (My experience.) You should buy a ppm meter or e.c. to be exact and remember you can add nutrients but it&#8217;s hard to &#8216;water-down&#8217; if the stock tank levels rise.</p>
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		<title>By: Levi</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2009/11/hydroponic-crop-killers/comment-page-1/#comment-187</link>
		<dc:creator>Levi</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 08 Feb 2010 16:54:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=774#comment-187</guid>
		<description>I&#039;m looking to do a non-circulating system sometime soon, but am worried that it may be hard to keep my nutrients at the correct level as I am topping off the water. What signs should I look for to see if there is too much or too little nutrients?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m looking to do a non-circulating system sometime soon, but am worried that it may be hard to keep my nutrients at the correct level as I am topping off the water. What signs should I look for to see if there is too much or too little nutrients?</p>
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		<title>By: sip.penguin</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2009/11/hydroponic-crop-killers/comment-page-1/#comment-161</link>
		<dc:creator>sip.penguin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 31 Jan 2010 17:32:19 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Anna,  Check to make sure your light source is only a couple inches away from the seedling. If the light source is too high this will cause the seedling to stretch and eventually topple. One of my favorite light sources for seedlings is a T5 Florescent.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Anna,  Check to make sure your light source is only a couple inches away from the seedling. If the light source is too high this will cause the seedling to stretch and eventually topple. One of my favorite light sources for seedlings is a T5 Florescent.</p>
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		<title>By: Anna</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2009/11/hydroponic-crop-killers/comment-page-1/#comment-122</link>
		<dc:creator>Anna</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 11 Jan 2010 12:34:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=774#comment-122</guid>
		<description>Once my seeds germinate, they stop doing what they should be doing, namely branching out with secondary growth leaves. They just stay with one stem and the trunk goes up and up and wobbles over. I know it could be over-watering or too much coddling under saran wrap. I&#039;ve tried putting under sunlight and keeping away from drafts, giving a temporary breathing by pulling away the cover. Cat grass was the only complete success, and I suspect even a cat could plant it!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Once my seeds germinate, they stop doing what they should be doing, namely branching out with secondary growth leaves. They just stay with one stem and the trunk goes up and up and wobbles over. I know it could be over-watering or too much coddling under saran wrap. I&#8217;ve tried putting under sunlight and keeping away from drafts, giving a temporary breathing by pulling away the cover. Cat grass was the only complete success, and I suspect even a cat could plant it!</p>
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