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	<title>Comments on: Blueprint Breakdown: The Water Room</title>
	<atom:link href="http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2009/12/hydroponics-blueprint-breakdown-the-water-garden/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2009/12/hydroponics-blueprint-breakdown-the-water-garden/</link>
	<description>Hydroponics for Growing Minds</description>
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		<title>By: WhippinWater</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2009/12/hydroponics-blueprint-breakdown-the-water-garden/comment-page-1/#comment-1298</link>
		<dc:creator>WhippinWater</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 25 Aug 2010 05:56:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=2227#comment-1298</guid>
		<description>What&#039;s the deal with the holes on the bottom of the ice boxes?  The first ice box in my chain blows a strong force of air directly down on the plants, too much at one location.  Is this meant for something?  Thanks

WW</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>What&#8217;s the deal with the holes on the bottom of the ice boxes?  The first ice box in my chain blows a strong force of air directly down on the plants, too much at one location.  Is this meant for something?  Thanks</p>
<p>WW</p>
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		<title>By: db</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2009/12/hydroponics-blueprint-breakdown-the-water-garden/comment-page-1/#comment-1218</link>
		<dc:creator>db</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 31 Jul 2010 03:32:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=2227#comment-1218</guid>
		<description>An easy way to stop condensation that collects on the cold water supply lines is to insulate them so that the moisture in the air is not in direct contact with the pipe surface and will not collect on it.  Start with the large supply lines and if necessary all of the distribution lines, you may not have to wrap them all as the amount of moisture collecting will also be proportionate to the amount of surface area exposed.  If you keep your reservoir inside your grow area I would insulate this as well. Do not use fiberglass insulation as this is not water proof and if or when it gets wet your looking at more problems, if you for some reason cannot use a foam pipe wrap product that will resist moisture use visquine or a thicker &quot;painters plastic&quot; to encapsulate the fiberglass. And as everyone has mentioned the dehumidifier.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>An easy way to stop condensation that collects on the cold water supply lines is to insulate them so that the moisture in the air is not in direct contact with the pipe surface and will not collect on it.  Start with the large supply lines and if necessary all of the distribution lines, you may not have to wrap them all as the amount of moisture collecting will also be proportionate to the amount of surface area exposed.  If you keep your reservoir inside your grow area I would insulate this as well. Do not use fiberglass insulation as this is not water proof and if or when it gets wet your looking at more problems, if you for some reason cannot use a foam pipe wrap product that will resist moisture use visquine or a thicker &#8220;painters plastic&#8221; to encapsulate the fiberglass. And as everyone has mentioned the dehumidifier.</p>
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		<title>By: Lucas/Hydro Innovations</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2009/12/hydroponics-blueprint-breakdown-the-water-garden/comment-page-1/#comment-1128</link>
		<dc:creator>Lucas/Hydro Innovations</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 28 Jun 2010 17:47:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=2227#comment-1128</guid>
		<description>WW,

That is a very good question.  Most of the time it is too warm in the garden area while the lights are on to allow the fans to slow down too much to be an issue.   But always be sure that the temperature sensor is placed in such a way to give you an accurate reading in order to control fan speed accordingly.  Stephen recommends pushing the sensor through a small square of styrofoam(2&quot; X 2&quot;) so that the sensor sits just below the styrofoam out of direct light.  Let us know if you have anymore questions by sending them to support@hydroinnovations.com .  

Thanks,
Lucas</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>WW,</p>
<p>That is a very good question.  Most of the time it is too warm in the garden area while the lights are on to allow the fans to slow down too much to be an issue.   But always be sure that the temperature sensor is placed in such a way to give you an accurate reading in order to control fan speed accordingly.  Stephen recommends pushing the sensor through a small square of styrofoam(2&#8243; X 2&#8243;) so that the sensor sits just below the styrofoam out of direct light.  Let us know if you have anymore questions by sending them to <a href="mailto:support@hydroinnovations.com">support@hydroinnovations.com</a> .  </p>
<p>Thanks,<br />
Lucas</p>
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		<title>By: WhippinWater</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2009/12/hydroponics-blueprint-breakdown-the-water-garden/comment-page-1/#comment-1126</link>
		<dc:creator>WhippinWater</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 25 Jun 2010 15:01:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=2227#comment-1126</guid>
		<description>I&#039;m trying to better understand the use of thermostats on the ice boxes, does the increasing and decreasing fan speed cause the light area under the reflector to get hotter?  When the fan decreases will the light then be too close or should I use the lowest fan speed to determine the distance from the plants?  Could you clarify this for us Stephen?  Thanks!

WW</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m trying to better understand the use of thermostats on the ice boxes, does the increasing and decreasing fan speed cause the light area under the reflector to get hotter?  When the fan decreases will the light then be too close or should I use the lowest fan speed to determine the distance from the plants?  Could you clarify this for us Stephen?  Thanks!</p>
<p>WW</p>
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		<title>By: Andrew</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2009/12/hydroponics-blueprint-breakdown-the-water-garden/comment-page-1/#comment-1104</link>
		<dc:creator>Andrew</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 05 Jun 2010 23:51:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=2227#comment-1104</guid>
		<description>I have 2-cool tubes (2-1000&#039;s at each end) with a diameter of 6&quot;. I just bought a water cooled CO2 from H.I.. Know ,if I want to run 4000 watts ,in a 8 foot by 8 foot room ?, or a 12 foot by 6 foot room?, what should I purchase ? ,how many ICE Boxes ?. I also am buying an Ice Cap. I only have a 1/4 hp Active Aqua water chiller . I have 2-6&quot; inline fans (605 &amp; 450 cfm) &amp; an 8&quot;650 cfm . I have a small air conditioner, is it needed?, &amp; how whould I set this room up ?. Please any advice is well appreciated !!!!! Thanks in advance !!!!! Andrew</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have 2-cool tubes (2-1000&#8217;s at each end) with a diameter of 6&#8243;. I just bought a water cooled CO2 from H.I.. Know ,if I want to run 4000 watts ,in a 8 foot by 8 foot room ?, or a 12 foot by 6 foot room?, what should I purchase ? ,how many ICE Boxes ?. I also am buying an Ice Cap. I only have a 1/4 hp Active Aqua water chiller . I have 2-6&#8243; inline fans (605 &amp; 450 cfm) &amp; an 8&#8243;650 cfm . I have a small air conditioner, is it needed?, &amp; how whould I set this room up ?. Please any advice is well appreciated !!!!! Thanks in advance !!!!! Andrew</p>
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		<title>By: Hydroguy</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2009/12/hydroponics-blueprint-breakdown-the-water-garden/comment-page-1/#comment-1092</link>
		<dc:creator>Hydroguy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 Jun 2010 00:36:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=2227#comment-1092</guid>
		<description>Very interesting article and system design. I look forward to seeing a real-world demonstration when possible.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Very interesting article and system design. I look forward to seeing a real-world demonstration when possible.</p>
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		<title>By: stephen</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2009/12/hydroponics-blueprint-breakdown-the-water-garden/comment-page-1/#comment-1090</link>
		<dc:creator>stephen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Jun 2010 01:41:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=2227#comment-1090</guid>
		<description>Hi Taylor,

Just a few tips to help you get the most out of your system. The Ice Box should always be after the light and will not cool as efficiently if placed in front. Typically we have found also that the fans do better pulling air through the reflector than pushing (as I think you also found--you tend to get better air flow this way). The air temperature exiting the Ice Box is determined primarily by the water temperature, but flow rate for both air and water will also play a role.

Condensation can be eliminated if you&#039;re experiencing it. Condensation will happen any time the water being used for cooling is lower than the dewpoint temperature (dewpoint temperature is a combination of relative humidity and ambient temperature, there are free calculators online).  This could be from running the water at a colder temperature than it needs to be, high humidity in your garden, or a combination of both. We recommend using our system at or below 55% humidity which will stop any condensation problems from occurring. If you have higher humidity than that adjustments have to be made by either running a dehumidifier (as you mention).  If humidity can&#039;t be controlled, you can raise your water temperature to above the dew point temperature. If doing so results in warmer than desired garden temperatures, you can increase the efficiency of the system by adding another Ice Box on a fan wall-mounted for example. Doing this will result in better performance at a higher water temperature.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Taylor,</p>
<p>Just a few tips to help you get the most out of your system. The Ice Box should always be after the light and will not cool as efficiently if placed in front. Typically we have found also that the fans do better pulling air through the reflector than pushing (as I think you also found&#8211;you tend to get better air flow this way). The air temperature exiting the Ice Box is determined primarily by the water temperature, but flow rate for both air and water will also play a role.</p>
<p>Condensation can be eliminated if you&#8217;re experiencing it. Condensation will happen any time the water being used for cooling is lower than the dewpoint temperature (dewpoint temperature is a combination of relative humidity and ambient temperature, there are free calculators online).  This could be from running the water at a colder temperature than it needs to be, high humidity in your garden, or a combination of both. We recommend using our system at or below 55% humidity which will stop any condensation problems from occurring. If you have higher humidity than that adjustments have to be made by either running a dehumidifier (as you mention).  If humidity can&#8217;t be controlled, you can raise your water temperature to above the dew point temperature. If doing so results in warmer than desired garden temperatures, you can increase the efficiency of the system by adding another Ice Box on a fan wall-mounted for example. Doing this will result in better performance at a higher water temperature.</p>
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		<title>By: Taylor Wayne</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2009/12/hydroponics-blueprint-breakdown-the-water-garden/comment-page-1/#comment-1088</link>
		<dc:creator>Taylor Wayne</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Jun 2010 19:25:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=2227#comment-1088</guid>
		<description>A friend gave me his Ice Box after he closed his garden and I have been playing with it of 10 days now.  I have a 500 cfm fan connected to one 600 watt light. We have 1200 watts total but only one light has an enclosed reflector at this time. At first I set it up to push the air through my reflector and this worked well.  

Next, I set it up to pull the air through the reflector.  This set up worked even better.  Exiting air temps run to 75 degrees when pushing the air but I was able to cool the exiting air to 67 degrees by pulling the air.   However, after about 1 hour condensation became a huge problem.  So, I set it up again to push the air.

I assume the reason I encountered so much condensation was because the air being pushed was about the same temp as the being pulled.  

The system was working too well, if you will.  I also assume that by adding other controls, ie: fan control and/or a dehumidifier.  That I will be able to control temps so that condensation will be less of a problem or nearly eliminated.

I&#039;m sold on water cooling.  This is my third summer and I&#039;ll have fewer headaches because of heat.  Nothing worse than walking in to your grow space and seeing temps in the 90s.  

Wish I&#039;d discovered this cool idea sooner.

Now, I&#039;m saving for a chiller.

Good Day!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A friend gave me his Ice Box after he closed his garden and I have been playing with it of 10 days now.  I have a 500 cfm fan connected to one 600 watt light. We have 1200 watts total but only one light has an enclosed reflector at this time. At first I set it up to push the air through my reflector and this worked well.  </p>
<p>Next, I set it up to pull the air through the reflector.  This set up worked even better.  Exiting air temps run to 75 degrees when pushing the air but I was able to cool the exiting air to 67 degrees by pulling the air.   However, after about 1 hour condensation became a huge problem.  So, I set it up again to push the air.</p>
<p>I assume the reason I encountered so much condensation was because the air being pushed was about the same temp as the being pulled.  </p>
<p>The system was working too well, if you will.  I also assume that by adding other controls, ie: fan control and/or a dehumidifier.  That I will be able to control temps so that condensation will be less of a problem or nearly eliminated.</p>
<p>I&#8217;m sold on water cooling.  This is my third summer and I&#8217;ll have fewer headaches because of heat.  Nothing worse than walking in to your grow space and seeing temps in the 90s.  </p>
<p>Wish I&#8217;d discovered this cool idea sooner.</p>
<p>Now, I&#8217;m saving for a chiller.</p>
<p>Good Day!</p>
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		<title>By: Curtis</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2009/12/hydroponics-blueprint-breakdown-the-water-garden/comment-page-1/#comment-848</link>
		<dc:creator>Curtis</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Mar 2010 20:18:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=2227#comment-848</guid>
		<description>To Jason&#039;s point about adding up expense. . . 

If you need to add a cheap, dehumidifying solution, don&#039;t reinvent the wheel and don&#039;t get a fancy gardening dehumidifier.

Get a dehumidifier from $25 (333 cubic feet) to $40 (for the 500 cubic ft version) from EvaDry.

http://evadry.reachlocal.net/products.html

Small, simple, and should work for 10 yrs or so.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>To Jason&#8217;s point about adding up expense. . . </p>
<p>If you need to add a cheap, dehumidifying solution, don&#8217;t reinvent the wheel and don&#8217;t get a fancy gardening dehumidifier.</p>
<p>Get a dehumidifier from $25 (333 cubic feet) to $40 (for the 500 cubic ft version) from EvaDry.</p>
<p><a href="http://evadry.reachlocal.net/products.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://evadry.reachlocal.net/products.html</a></p>
<p>Small, simple, and should work for 10 yrs or so.</p>
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		<title>By: stephen</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2009/12/hydroponics-blueprint-breakdown-the-water-garden/comment-page-1/#comment-310</link>
		<dc:creator>stephen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Feb 2010 23:10:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=2227#comment-310</guid>
		<description>We posted some new videos about about water-cooling, for more information go to...

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=hydro+innovations&amp;search_type=&amp;aq=0&amp;oq=hydro+in</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We posted some new videos about about water-cooling, for more information go to&#8230;</p>
<p><a href="http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=hydro+innovations&amp;search_type=&amp;aq=0&amp;oq=hydro+in" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=hydro+innovations&amp;search_type=&amp;aq=0&amp;oq=hydro+in</a></p>
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