Now that the catnip is better developed, the differences really start to show. If you haven’t been following along, you might want to take a look at Day 1, and Day 7.
| Day 14 | |
The top flower cluster is well developed and large (above). However, looking at the untrained plant to the left, it is obvious that the top of the plant was better lit than the bottom. The flower clusters at the top are vastly superior to those on the lower branches. |
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| Notice the small, popcorn-sized clusters from a lower branch to the left. The white purple dotted flowers are lovely, but small clusters won’t yield much dried catnip. Now on to our pinched example:
Notice how much closer the plant’s footprint now matches the container’s. |
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| I’ve decided that I am going to start using “pinched” and “topped” interchangeably. I prefer the term “pinched” (thank you for teaching me the term, we are all students on a path), but I know there are lots of gentle readers out there that have only heard the technique referred to as “topping.”
Think of me as a bridge between the two camps. |
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One of the things I am hoping to demonstrate, is what this difference can mean in terms of flower and fruit production. Keep in mind that in order for the technique to be a useful way to improve overall production, it must not only produce more than an unpinched plant, in must produce enough more to cover the additional time and effort. Catnip does not require a change in the light cycle to flower, but removing the growing tips prevents the catnip from bolting until the tips are allowed to develop, which will allow you to delay flowering and fruiting until you are happy with the topped plant structure. As I’m in a good mood, and feeling pretty chipper, I’m going to go so far as to say I’m happy. I’m going to stop pinching, and allow the catnip to flower. Peace, love and puka shells, |
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Nothing shows why topping works well without great pictures like yours. I do like the more compact form as I expect many others do as well.