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	<title>Comments on: Recirculation Basics &#8211; Part 3</title>
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	<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/04/hydroponic-recirculation-basics-part-3/</link>
	<description>Hydroponics for Growing Minds</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 25 Apr 2012 19:56:14 -0700</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: Uncle B</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/04/hydroponic-recirculation-basics-part-3/comment-page-1/#comment-1725</link>
		<dc:creator>Uncle B</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 28 Feb 2011 13:49:34 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Forerunners to nuclear/electric produced food for a brave new world, even able to survive harsh climates, desert conditions. Also possible: great underground cities, beneath the desert solar collectors, producing Sahara electricity for a power-hungry Europe, and still self sustaining, deep into this technology. Even Sweden at pone time used spent heat for garden growing, local home heating.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Forerunners to nuclear/electric produced food for a brave new world, even able to survive harsh climates, desert conditions. Also possible: great underground cities, beneath the desert solar collectors, producing Sahara electricity for a power-hungry Europe, and still self sustaining, deep into this technology. Even Sweden at pone time used spent heat for garden growing, local home heating.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Ambient scenting</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/04/hydroponic-recirculation-basics-part-3/comment-page-1/#comment-1212</link>
		<dc:creator>Ambient scenting</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 30 Jul 2010 07:13:49 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>you have such a nice blog. and very well detailed, farming is, if you look at it, it is easy but wrong.. farming, croping is really a talent and a real genius thing.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>you have such a nice blog. and very well detailed, farming is, if you look at it, it is easy but wrong.. farming, croping is really a talent and a real genius thing.</p>
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		<title>By: Michael Christian</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/04/hydroponic-recirculation-basics-part-3/comment-page-1/#comment-1113</link>
		<dc:creator>Michael Christian</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 10 Jun 2010 22:10:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=4626#comment-1113</guid>
		<description>CW,

I apologize for the confusion CW. The figures I gave are primarily for greenhouse growing which is what’s happening here in California in a big way. In our experience, most greenhouse crops do best between 60-80% RH although ideal is dependent on crop, stage of crop and temperature. 

One of the ways we steer plant growth in greenhouses is by controlling transpiration rates. When temps are very high and RH is low, plants transpire more to keep cool which means less growth… by increasing RH, we slow transpiration down to avoid wilt and increase nutrient uptake. Same is true when temps are low, transpiration slows down, we decrease the RH to increase transpiration rates. As a rule, the higher the temp, the higher we want to keep the RH, the lower the temp, the lower the RH. Make sense?

Indoors, if your plants are doing well between 40-60% RH, then by all means keep it there. (curious what your temp is). There are a pocket of veteran indoor growers who swear by 85F, 80% RH. Others with CO2 injection say, 75F, 70% RH. While other veterans say 60-75% during veg and 40-55% for flowering. What works well for one, does not for another.

Ultimately it’s about what works best for your situation. It’s good to know however, how RH and temperature affect transpiration so you can adjust if you determine that transpiration is not optimum. 

&gt;With this Humidity parameters plants will be prone to get Powdery Mildew,how do you prevent it?   POSTED BY FRANDITH GIMENZ 

Frandith: The Powdery Mildew fungi likes humidity between 40-100%, warm and shady, high humidity is not the only cause of PM. PM can grow on dry dead leaves if the other conditions are right. Best practice is to create a hostile environment for PM fungi colonizing on your plants:
1.	Give plants plenty of room for air circulation,
2.	Keep a clean room, pull out any dead or dying leaf material, 
3.	Don’t crowd or overlap plant canopy, 
4.	Give even exposure to light, 
5.	Make sure leaves are fluttered gently by oscillating fans, 
6.	Drop ambient RH at least 10-20% to interrupt their colonization until you get a handle on it.

If it gets out of hand, Sulfur sprays can be used to suppress established PM or spray potent compost teas high in beneficial fungi on the leaf surfaces only in the mornings so they can dry out before night. Use tea to out compete the PM fungi. If there’s no room on the leaves, they can’t colonize. Once you have a handle on it, keep up best grow room practices to prevent it from colonizing again.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>CW,</p>
<p>I apologize for the confusion CW. The figures I gave are primarily for greenhouse growing which is what’s happening here in California in a big way. In our experience, most greenhouse crops do best between 60-80% RH although ideal is dependent on crop, stage of crop and temperature. </p>
<p>One of the ways we steer plant growth in greenhouses is by controlling transpiration rates. When temps are very high and RH is low, plants transpire more to keep cool which means less growth… by increasing RH, we slow transpiration down to avoid wilt and increase nutrient uptake. Same is true when temps are low, transpiration slows down, we decrease the RH to increase transpiration rates. As a rule, the higher the temp, the higher we want to keep the RH, the lower the temp, the lower the RH. Make sense?</p>
<p>Indoors, if your plants are doing well between 40-60% RH, then by all means keep it there. (curious what your temp is). There are a pocket of veteran indoor growers who swear by 85F, 80% RH. Others with CO2 injection say, 75F, 70% RH. While other veterans say 60-75% during veg and 40-55% for flowering. What works well for one, does not for another.</p>
<p>Ultimately it’s about what works best for your situation. It’s good to know however, how RH and temperature affect transpiration so you can adjust if you determine that transpiration is not optimum. </p>
<p>&gt;With this Humidity parameters plants will be prone to get Powdery Mildew,how do you prevent it?   POSTED BY FRANDITH GIMENZ </p>
<p>Frandith: The Powdery Mildew fungi likes humidity between 40-100%, warm and shady, high humidity is not the only cause of PM. PM can grow on dry dead leaves if the other conditions are right. Best practice is to create a hostile environment for PM fungi colonizing on your plants:<br />
1.	Give plants plenty of room for air circulation,<br />
2.	Keep a clean room, pull out any dead or dying leaf material,<br />
3.	Don’t crowd or overlap plant canopy,<br />
4.	Give even exposure to light,<br />
5.	Make sure leaves are fluttered gently by oscillating fans,<br />
6.	Drop ambient RH at least 10-20% to interrupt their colonization until you get a handle on it.</p>
<p>If it gets out of hand, Sulfur sprays can be used to suppress established PM or spray potent compost teas high in beneficial fungi on the leaf surfaces only in the mornings so they can dry out before night. Use tea to out compete the PM fungi. If there’s no room on the leaves, they can’t colonize. Once you have a handle on it, keep up best grow room practices to prevent it from colonizing again.</p>
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		<title>By: Frandith Gimenz</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/04/hydroponic-recirculation-basics-part-3/comment-page-1/#comment-1107</link>
		<dc:creator>Frandith Gimenz</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Jun 2010 22:26:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=4626#comment-1107</guid>
		<description>With this Humidity parameters plants will be prone to get Powdery Mildew,how do you prevent it?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>With this Humidity parameters plants will be prone to get Powdery Mildew,how do you prevent it?</p>
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		<title>By: Frandith Gimenz</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/04/hydroponic-recirculation-basics-part-3/comment-page-1/#comment-1106</link>
		<dc:creator>Frandith Gimenz</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Jun 2010 00:29:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=4626#comment-1106</guid>
		<description>I will like to know what about the relation between POWDERY MILDEW and High HUMIDITY LEVEL?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I will like to know what about the relation between POWDERY MILDEW and High HUMIDITY LEVEL?</p>
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		<title>By: CW</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/04/hydroponic-recirculation-basics-part-3/comment-page-1/#comment-1075</link>
		<dc:creator>CW</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 26 May 2010 15:59:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=4626#comment-1075</guid>
		<description>The section about humidity contradicts every source of information i have ever read. In this section the author states high levels of humidity along with higher temperatures are ideal.

example :As a rule, at 75°F (24°C), if RH is below 60% you must add moisture to get to 75% (which is ideal), but stay below 85% to avoid stress and disease. At 85°F (29°C), if RH is below 70% you must add moisture to get to 80% (which is ideal), but stay below 90% to avoid stress and disease. As temperature rises, air holds less moisture. Steer your plants within these parameters for optimum plant performance.

Is this correct?   

Like i said , it contradicts everything ive ever read. Its been common knowledge that 40-60% humidity in an enclosed growrooms is the norm, even with co2 suplementation.

Can someone please explain before thousands of indoor growers crank up the humidity and put there plants in jeopardy.

CW</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The section about humidity contradicts every source of information i have ever read. In this section the author states high levels of humidity along with higher temperatures are ideal.</p>
<p>example :As a rule, at 75°F (24°C), if RH is below 60% you must add moisture to get to 75% (which is ideal), but stay below 85% to avoid stress and disease. At 85°F (29°C), if RH is below 70% you must add moisture to get to 80% (which is ideal), but stay below 90% to avoid stress and disease. As temperature rises, air holds less moisture. Steer your plants within these parameters for optimum plant performance.</p>
<p>Is this correct?   </p>
<p>Like i said , it contradicts everything ive ever read. Its been common knowledge that 40-60% humidity in an enclosed growrooms is the norm, even with co2 suplementation.</p>
<p>Can someone please explain before thousands of indoor growers crank up the humidity and put there plants in jeopardy.</p>
<p>CW</p>
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		<title>By: Devin</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/04/hydroponic-recirculation-basics-part-3/comment-page-1/#comment-1056</link>
		<dc:creator>Devin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 May 2010 21:35:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=4626#comment-1056</guid>
		<description>Thank you guys so much for the greenhouse review... It&#039;s nice to see a magazine with such a broad range of experience levels covered. We just picked up our first greenhouse (20x40) and this article plus fogoponics / aeroponics in conjunction with Teflon coated pond foggers is our plan for success.

Keep up the good work!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thank you guys so much for the greenhouse review&#8230; It&#8217;s nice to see a magazine with such a broad range of experience levels covered. We just picked up our first greenhouse (20&#215;40) and this article plus fogoponics / aeroponics in conjunction with Teflon coated pond foggers is our plan for success.</p>
<p>Keep up the good work!</p>
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