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	<title>Comments on: Plantworks: Part 1 &#8211; Humidity and Vapor Pressure Deficit</title>
	<atom:link href="http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/07/plantworks-part-1-humidity-and-vapor-pressure-deficit/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/07/plantworks-part-1-humidity-and-vapor-pressure-deficit/</link>
	<description>Hydroponics for Growing Minds</description>
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		<title>By: luke</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/07/plantworks-part-1-humidity-and-vapor-pressure-deficit/comment-page-1/#comment-1901</link>
		<dc:creator>luke</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 24 Jun 2011 00:44:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=5141#comment-1901</guid>
		<description>what would happen if you had 4o% humidity for the hole  vedge ? would it handle ? its temps are at 28c in the day 18c at night</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>what would happen if you had 4o% humidity for the hole  vedge ? would it handle ? its temps are at 28c in the day 18c at night</p>
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		<title>By: Everest</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/07/plantworks-part-1-humidity-and-vapor-pressure-deficit/comment-page-1/#comment-1442</link>
		<dc:creator>Everest</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Nov 2010 01:07:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=5141#comment-1442</guid>
		<description>Dear He-who-will-not-post-his-real-email-address,

Thanks for your comment(s). We would be glad to share our sources / bibliography for this or any other article published in Urban Garden Magazine. I can also confirm that no posts from any Internet forums formed any part of our research and they were certainly NOT plagiarized! What do you take us for? LOL! Would it be out of the question that you may have erred into a little self-flattery in this regard?

Notwithstanding your malapropisms and general internet bravado, please consider providing a valid email address with any future posts please, lest we don&#039;t take your outrageous slurs as seriously as we might.  :-)

Peace, love and patience,

Everest</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Dear He-who-will-not-post-his-real-email-address,</p>
<p>Thanks for your comment(s). We would be glad to share our sources / bibliography for this or any other article published in Urban Garden Magazine. I can also confirm that no posts from any Internet forums formed any part of our research and they were certainly NOT plagiarized! What do you take us for? LOL! Would it be out of the question that you may have erred into a little self-flattery in this regard?</p>
<p>Notwithstanding your malapropisms and general internet bravado, please consider providing a valid email address with any future posts please, lest we don&#8217;t take your outrageous slurs as seriously as we might.  <img src='http://urbangardenmagazine.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
<p>Peace, love and patience,</p>
<p>Everest</p>
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		<title>By: the_plagiarized_one</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/07/plantworks-part-1-humidity-and-vapor-pressure-deficit/comment-page-1/#comment-1438</link>
		<dc:creator>the_plagiarized_one</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 24 Nov 2010 20:30:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=5141#comment-1438</guid>
		<description>Hey,

Glad to see none of my massages (gojo from TCC) about your plagiarizing of my work are getting posted. 

You guys/gals should just have me write your articles for you!

/sarcasm</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey,</p>
<p>Glad to see none of my massages (gojo from TCC) about your plagiarizing of my work are getting posted. </p>
<p>You guys/gals should just have me write your articles for you!</p>
<p>/sarcasm</p>
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		<title>By: G-Man</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/07/plantworks-part-1-humidity-and-vapor-pressure-deficit/comment-page-1/#comment-1386</link>
		<dc:creator>G-Man</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 09 Oct 2010 22:45:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=5141#comment-1386</guid>
		<description>Yes Oliver, the infrared thermometers are good for measuring leaf temperatures.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Yes Oliver, the infrared thermometers are good for measuring leaf temperatures.</p>
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		<title>By: Oliver Whinnett</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/07/plantworks-part-1-humidity-and-vapor-pressure-deficit/comment-page-1/#comment-1385</link>
		<dc:creator>Oliver Whinnett</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 09 Oct 2010 22:16:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=5141#comment-1385</guid>
		<description>Would a good method of measuring the leaf temperature be to use one of those infrared thermometers you can purchase from Maplin?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Would a good method of measuring the leaf temperature be to use one of those infrared thermometers you can purchase from Maplin?</p>
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		<title>By: G-Man</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/07/plantworks-part-1-humidity-and-vapor-pressure-deficit/comment-page-1/#comment-1367</link>
		<dc:creator>G-Man</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Sep 2010 19:59:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=5141#comment-1367</guid>
		<description>Hey P Dude,

In situations where CO2 is used there is little point in injecting the CO2 when the stomata are closed – so avoid having an environment where the VPD is high (above 11 millibars (approx.)) during this period.  A lowish VPD (between 6-8) will encourage the stomata to open wide and gobble up all that lovely CO2. If you can’t get the VPD down when the lights are on then maybe switch off CO2 injection and save the planet.
 
During the night period, VPD is not as important because stomata are closed. However, problems can occur when indoor gardens run with a drastically higher VPD during the night in comparison to the day, which could come from using excessive dehumidification during the night. You should aim to have slightly lower VPD in the night than during the day, which is usual for most indoor growers.  

If fungal growth is your main concern, running the RH between 55-65% at 70F during the night should be fine. Even running as low as 45% at 70F in the last few weeks should be ok if you want piece of mind when growing varieties that are particularly susceptible to botrytis or mildew. Note that RH can vary from place to place inside the grow area so you may be getting 65% at your RH sensor but without any air stirring going on it could be getting much higher in cooler areas (a cold corner or inside a crowded crop canopy facing a cold wall) where there is not much air movement.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey P Dude,</p>
<p>In situations where CO2 is used there is little point in injecting the CO2 when the stomata are closed – so avoid having an environment where the VPD is high (above 11 millibars (approx.)) during this period.  A lowish VPD (between 6-8) will encourage the stomata to open wide and gobble up all that lovely CO2. If you can’t get the VPD down when the lights are on then maybe switch off CO2 injection and save the planet.</p>
<p>During the night period, VPD is not as important because stomata are closed. However, problems can occur when indoor gardens run with a drastically higher VPD during the night in comparison to the day, which could come from using excessive dehumidification during the night. You should aim to have slightly lower VPD in the night than during the day, which is usual for most indoor growers.  </p>
<p>If fungal growth is your main concern, running the RH between 55-65% at 70F during the night should be fine. Even running as low as 45% at 70F in the last few weeks should be ok if you want piece of mind when growing varieties that are particularly susceptible to botrytis or mildew. Note that RH can vary from place to place inside the grow area so you may be getting 65% at your RH sensor but without any air stirring going on it could be getting much higher in cooler areas (a cold corner or inside a crowded crop canopy facing a cold wall) where there is not much air movement.</p>
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		<title>By: peaceful dude</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/07/plantworks-part-1-humidity-and-vapor-pressure-deficit/comment-page-1/#comment-1311</link>
		<dc:creator>peaceful dude</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Sep 2010 23:01:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=5141#comment-1311</guid>
		<description>Very interesting article - goes contrary to some of the misinformation out there. 
Regarding RH and the final two weeks of flowering. I have been using CO2 with the temp of 80 degrees and keeping the RH between 60-70% during the first stage of flowering.  Then during the last two weeks of flowering I have been dropping the RH to 50-60% during the day and 40-50% during the night while dropping the night time temp to 70 degrees.

Questions: 

Using your chart at 70 degrees should I be able to keep my RH at night time to 55-65% during the last two weeks without fungus problems? 

Is the VPD as important during lights out as during daylight?

I am interested in recommendations for the last 
two weeks of flowering/fruiting.

Thanks again for the excellent article.

P Dude</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Very interesting article &#8211; goes contrary to some of the misinformation out there.<br />
Regarding RH and the final two weeks of flowering. I have been using CO2 with the temp of 80 degrees and keeping the RH between 60-70% during the first stage of flowering.  Then during the last two weeks of flowering I have been dropping the RH to 50-60% during the day and 40-50% during the night while dropping the night time temp to 70 degrees.</p>
<p>Questions: </p>
<p>Using your chart at 70 degrees should I be able to keep my RH at night time to 55-65% during the last two weeks without fungus problems? </p>
<p>Is the VPD as important during lights out as during daylight?</p>
<p>I am interested in recommendations for the last<br />
two weeks of flowering/fruiting.</p>
<p>Thanks again for the excellent article.</p>
<p>P Dude</p>
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		<title>By: G-Man</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/07/plantworks-part-1-humidity-and-vapor-pressure-deficit/comment-page-1/#comment-1296</link>
		<dc:creator>G-Man</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Aug 2010 21:34:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=5141#comment-1296</guid>
		<description>Mateo - There are two humidification systems in the photo above. 

The white one is a Centrifugal Humidification System made by Faran, the model number is HR 50. They also do a smaller one called the HR 15. I&#039;m sure if you give it a google you&#039;ll find a few retailers selling them.

The unit further back in black is actually two lots of five disk ultrasonic foggers/misters floating in a shallow reservoir.

I hope that helps</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Mateo &#8211; There are two humidification systems in the photo above. </p>
<p>The white one is a Centrifugal Humidification System made by Faran, the model number is HR 50. They also do a smaller one called the HR 15. I&#8217;m sure if you give it a google you&#8217;ll find a few retailers selling them.</p>
<p>The unit further back in black is actually two lots of five disk ultrasonic foggers/misters floating in a shallow reservoir.</p>
<p>I hope that helps</p>
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		<title>By: Mateo</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/07/plantworks-part-1-humidity-and-vapor-pressure-deficit/comment-page-1/#comment-1288</link>
		<dc:creator>Mateo</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 18 Aug 2010 22:39:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=5141#comment-1288</guid>
		<description>hi, great article. where can i find one of those humidification systems?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>hi, great article. where can i find one of those humidification systems?</p>
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		<title>By: G-Man</title>
		<link>http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/07/plantworks-part-1-humidity-and-vapor-pressure-deficit/comment-page-1/#comment-1204</link>
		<dc:creator>G-Man</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 28 Jul 2010 22:49:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://urbangardenmagazine.com/?p=5141#comment-1204</guid>
		<description>Gojo, references are:

BCMAFF Floriculture Factsheet No.400-5 (June 1994) 

Autogrow Systems Ltd – &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autogrow.com/1_information/1_vpd/info_vpd.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Humidity and VPD&lt;/a&gt;  

If you are interested in calculating VPD, an on-line calculator can be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.autogrow.com/vpd_calc.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Autogrow VPD Calculator&lt;/a&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Gojo, references are:</p>
<p>BCMAFF Floriculture Factsheet No.400-5 (June 1994) </p>
<p>Autogrow Systems Ltd – <a href="http://www.autogrow.com/1_information/1_vpd/info_vpd.html" rel="nofollow">Humidity and VPD</a>  </p>
<p>If you are interested in calculating VPD, an on-line calculator can be found here: <a href="http://www.autogrow.com/vpd_calc.php" rel="nofollow">Autogrow VPD Calculator</a></p>
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